London Fashion Week S/S 2016
The London Fashion Week for the season S/S 2016 has also ended. Let´s see what was going on there! On the first day, we can see Fyodor Golan again. Do you remember that brand? They were the winners of the Premium Young Designers Award and they have also presented their collection on the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Berlin, Germany this July.
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On the LFW they presented a very colorful and playful "adolescent" aesthetics, as they call it, predominantly interwined with dots and other geomatrical shapes. It almost gives you kind of a 60s feel.
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In their own words, they create for the "modern iconic woman, seductive, fragile and fearless." Sounds good! :) Models were walking in this platforms. I wonder if it´s difficult to walk in that shoes.
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Other than Fjodor Golan, on the first day, we had the pleaure to see DAKS.
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DAKS presented a very elegant, airily collection with a slight retro feel to it. But, who is in fact DAKS? For those who don´t know about them, DAKS is on the market since 1894. Their founder Simeon Simpson was only 16 years old when he founded the company! His creativity combined with his enthusiasm enabled him to become a great entrepreneur. The brand was the first one who invented new fashion in 1934, naimly the self-supporting trouser, which were a revolution for that time. Men no longer had to wear belts or braces, which were especially irritating while playing sports. The name DAKS, was speculated to have been the combination of the word DAD (after much loved founding Father, or Dad, of the company - Simeon Simpson) and SLACKS (american term for informal trousers). They started creating womenswear in 1937. Interesting story!
On the second day, Simone Rocha presented a very romantic collection, interlaced with lace, mesh and see-through materials. Simone is a young irish designer with a great success already all around the world!
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Versus is a Versace´s brand. The S/S 2016 collection has a toughish kind of feel to it, flirting with rock´n´roll elements as well. The creations are mostly black, simple and straightforward, with the exception of this more romantic part of the collection with the floral graphics on silky, see-through materials as a main counterpoint.
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On the third day we had the chance to see Sophia Webster. Sophia is actully a shoe designer who designes adorably cute choes!
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Temeperly came up with a very easy-going, elegant and hippy-like collection interwined with ethnic elements.
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I found Vivianne Westwood´s fashion show really awesome. Not just because of her collection, but because of the performace as a whole. The music that accompanied the show, composed by Dominic Emrich was truly brilliant! It portrays the truth of the maddening world of business nowadays in the new economy, moved to the internet, and the struggle young people face. All the online marketing, social media craze, people constantly telling you how to suceed "go online, go crazy, post every day, hashtag, hashtag, Twitter, Tumblr, Pinterest, be consistent" etc. or a young guy saying "I spent my whole life doing internships, I did it all for free". Haha. Umm...that somehow rings true! So brilliant! Kudos to Vivianne for the social criticism! Check out the fashion show here:
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One of the better shows on the fourth day was that of Belstaff. They had a really interesting performance. Models were disperesed around the hall among vignettes and sand, while seascapes and sounds formed the background. The composer Sorana Santos played medley of piano music on the grand Steinway and the guests viewed the performance from an over-hanging terrace. Their S/S 2016 collection is inspired by the beauty manifested in power, mostly the power of the nature, such as the sea - which is the most promiment theme of the collection. The collection in itself is a "meditation on femininity", as they call it. A contemplation about a free-spirited woman hurtling through a life of adventure, constantly adjusting to the challanges she encounters. She is vulnerable, yet strong. She is a "force of femininity".
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Osman is a british born designer with a unique architectural and strong sculptural aesthetics. He pulls inspiration from his interests in abstract art, ethnicity and the costume of ancient cultures. His elegant design has helped him win a big fan base, among which are also famous names such as Beyonce, Taylor Swift, Kate Moss and Lady Gaga.
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On the fifth day we saw Christopher Raeburn - a designer who became the synonim for sustainable fashion, after Vogue wrote an article about him, saying "Remember the four R´s: reduce, reuse, recycle and Raeburn." After that he has received an amazing array of media coverage both nationally and internationally. He wants to create high fashion with commercial awarness.
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Marques Almaida, a designing duo, came up with an abstract, yet romantic collection. Switching between leather jackets and pants, denim, and see-through materials. I get the impression that many designers on the London Fashion Week this season played with the idea of "femininity", portraying this assumed "contrast" in a woman, her gentleness and her strength, her vulnerability and her power. Could it be the light motiv of London Fashion Week S/S 2016?
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References: londonfashionweek.co.uk, Vogue.com, personal designer websites